Houndstooth, herringbone, plaid or tweed – your guide to checks

14 May 20264 min read

Checks are everywhere this season, but not all of them are created equal. Know your houndstooth from your herringbone and the whole look shifts.

Back view of a brown houndstooth checked coat

Checks can look complicated on the rack. Tartan, houndstooth, gingham, Prince of Wales: the names alone can make a jacket feel like it comes with homework. Once you know what you're looking at, each one becomes much easier to wear. Here's a simple guide to the ones you're most likely to come across.

Gingham


The friendliest of the checks. Even squares, usually a single colour on white, most often in crisp cotton. It feels fresh and relaxed, which makes it lovely for warmer months, whether that's a weekend shirt or a summer dress.

Tartan (or Plaid)

Bands of colour crossing horizontally and vertically, often in several shades at once. Tartan has deep Scottish roots, with many designs traditionally tied to particular clans and regions, while "plaid" is the word you'll hear more often in the US. A tartan scarf or skirt brings real warmth and character to a winter outfit.

Houndstooth


A broken check made of small, jagged four-pointed shapes, traditionally in black and white. It reads as polished and classic, especially on a tailored coat or blazer. A smaller version is sometimes called puppytooth.

Prince of Wales Check

Small checks grouped together to form larger ones, often with a fine overcheck in a contrasting colour. Named after Edward VIII, who wore it often as Prince of Wales, it's a lovely, timeless choice for suiting, for women and men alike.

Windowpane


Thin lines forming large, open squares, like the panes of a window. It's the most understated of the checks, adding interest to a suit or coat while still reading almost as a solid from across the room.

Two that are often mistaken for checks


Herringbone is a weave rather than a check: rows of slanted lines that zigzag, a little like the bones of a fish. Tweed is a fabric, a textured woollen cloth that began in Scotland, and it can be woven plain, in herringbone or in a check.

How to wear them


If pattern is new to you, start small. A fine, tonal check in colours you already love is an easy first step. When mixing two patterns, vary the scale, pairing a larger check with a smaller one, and let one shared colour tie them together. And if you've had your colours analysed with Gulinka, let your palette guide you. A check in your best shades will always feel like you.

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